Choice
- 6384 150kv 8s battery
- 6374 170kv 6s battery
- 6384 120kv 10s/12s battery
must have the mount holes - saite copy
- choose sensorless
most people use 120kv
Normally it's best to choose the lowest kV you can reach your rpm goal with but you can get away with a lot if the system just is well balanced in motor-esc-battery capability - @Larsb
Treatment
Thorough instructions
https://foil.zone/t/diy-electric-foil-assist-steps-pictures-cad-files/15041 (opens in a new tab)
https://foil.zone/t/6384-outrunner-bearing-removal/11236/39 (opens in a new tab)
Electrical
- Soldering thicker phase wires
Use liquid electrical tape on the wiring solder joins at the motor, or plenty of silicone inside heatshrink - @Jatem
Waterproofing
Use liquid electrical tape on the wiring solder joins at the motor, or plenty of silicone inside heatshrink.
Coat the stator thinly with epoxy so that it can be cooled by water. Fill the gaps between magnets on the bell with epoxy (with microballons) to protect them from rusting and reduce drag.
- replace the motor bearings with stainless steel or ceramic
Covering with epoxy
@hangloose has thoroughly explained it in his build: https://foil.zone/t/diy-6384-foil-drive-assist-from-south-germany/19307 (opens in a new tab)
motor epoxy thermal conductive:
Preparing with epoxy primer
- 2k Automotive
For the Stator, I just painted mine. Quaility paint, and that worked for 2 years without problem. To much epoxy on the windings will give heat problems. -- @Toto44
- Sigmacover 280 epoxy paint - @BasNL
Another approach - treat with Corossion X / ACF-50 dip frequently /Cyclo Fusion 3.0 corrosion inhibitor:
I have been running my 120kv motor with the magnets filled and dipped in corrosion x every 6 runs for 9 months now, probably over 100 hours of saltwater use with only light corrosion showing on the outer bell housing. I change the bearings out with the same cheap stainless ones every 20 hours or so -- @s9tim
Opening 6384
Inside the stator, the stator base can also be reached via the socket. Place a washer on the can and knock out the base with a punch or long screw and hammer. You hold the stator in your hand. First of all, of course, take out all the bearings -- @hangloose
Yes, some of them have some epoxy on the wires that sticks to the housing. I always heat mine up now before removing the stator and haven’t had any issues -- @Jesserosco
@Jesserosco
https://youtu.be/m10gyfTxMhE?si=HKpl8hDscvFjfiPr (opens in a new tab)
- tools: remove snap ring
- 6384 bearings: one side 6800x2, 6900 (where the cable)
Soldering wires
- Solder outside or inside
at that point: https://foil.zone/t/foil-drive-assist-diy/12927/1043?u=lishine (opens in a new tab)
@Jesserosco
https://youtu.be/F6SWwLVkyr8?si=i7Qs2Pfu37-MmH5s (opens in a new tab)
Problematic shaft removal:
https://foil.zone/t/6384-outrunner-bearing-removal/11236/53 (opens in a new tab)
How to make shrink wrap waterproof
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I’ve used liquid tape + shrink to seal the joints without issues for three years. I guess the joint with heat shrink protection is still good enough even if the liquid tape could probably be peeled off the silicone if you tried. -- @Larsb
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Liquid tape is rubber, not silicone. Silicone is far superior for waterproofing connections. A better method: place geocel marine silicone around solder joint. Shrink wrap the wet silicone wait 24 hrs for it to dry I’ve done this and have connections that are over 3 years old that are still waterproof. The benefit is that if you use silicone cable the bond to the cable is permanent. -- @Jezza
https://foil.zone/t/is-wire-shrink-wrap-waterproof/5350 (opens in a new tab)
Motor mount
3d printed pod for the mast
Materials
- make waterproof (fill with epoxy)
- make sure it is strong enough
- https://foil.zone/t/3d-printing-material-for-motor-mount/15489 (opens in a new tab)